Care Guide

Silk is the only natural filament fibre in existence. It is produced by the larva of the Bombyx mori moth, the result of centuries of selective breeding. Female moths lay 200–300 eggs. The larvae grow from 2 mm to 70 mm during 25–30 days of non-stop eating of mulberry leaves.

When fully grown, the silkworm spins a protective cocoon by secreting a continuous silk filament bound by sericin, a natural gum that hardens upon contact with air. Each cocoon contains 2 to 3 kilometres of silk thread, though only 600–1,000 metres yield an exploitable filament. Approximately 5.5 kg of cocoons yield just 0.5 kg of raw silk.

Global production is 160,000–200,000 tonnes per year (just 0.2% of all textile fibres). Asia produces 90% of the world's silk, with China accounting for 60–65% and India 15–18%.

The transformation from cocoon to weavable thread involves several precise steps:

1. Maceration: Cocoons are cooked in hot water to soften the protective sericin gum that holds the filaments together.

2. Reeling: The softened filaments from several cocoons are carefully unwound and combined, then wound onto bobbins to produce a long, smooth thread.

3. Throwing: Twist is applied to the filaments to give them strength and different properties:

• Tram: Two or more threads lightly twisted in one direction used for weft threads.
• Organzine: Threads given a preliminary twist, then twisted together in the opposite direction used for warp threads, which bear the tension of the loom. Demands the best-quality raw silk.
• Crepe: Twisted to a much greater degree than organzine, resulting in the characteristic crinkle effect of crepe fabrics.

4. De-gumming: The sericin is fully removed in preparation for dyeing, revealing silk's natural lustre and softness.

5. Weaving or Knitting: The prepared yarn is woven into fabric using plain, twill, satin, or jacquard constructions, or knitted into jersey.

Momme (mm) is the traditional unit used to measure the density and quality of silk fabric. The higher the momme count, the denser, more durable, and more luxurious the fabric.

• 6-12 mm: Lightweight, sheer silk (chiffon, organza)
• 12–19 mm: Medium weight (crepe de Chine, habotai, georgette)
• 19–22 mm: Heavyweight (charmeuse, satin)
• 22+ mm: Ultra-heavyweight

A higher momme count means more silk per square metre, resulting in better drape, stronger fabric, and deeper colour absorption when dyed.

Hand wash is always best.

• Fill a basin with lukewarm water (no higher than 30°C / 86°F). Hot water shrinks and damages silk's protein structure.
• Add a few drops of pH-neutral, mild soap. Never use regular detergent, bleach, or anything alkaline. A dedicated silk wash or baby shampoo works well.
• Submerge the garment and gently swirl for 2–3 minutes. Do not scrub, wring, or twist. Silk can loses up to 20% of its strength when wet.
• Rinse thoroughly in cool water until all soap residue is removed. You may add a splash of white vinegar to the final rinse to restore silk's natural sheen.
• Press the garment gently between clean, dry towels to remove excess water. Never wring.

Machine washing: If unavoidable, use a mesh laundry bag, select the most delicate/hand wash cycle, cold water only, and the lowest spin setting. Remove immediately after the cycle ends.

Dry cleaning: Professional dry cleaning is safe for silk, though some chemical solvents can be harsh over time. Specify "gentle process" to your cleaner.

Never:

• Use chlorine bleach: it destroys the silk fibre entirely
• Use fabric softener: silk is naturally soft and the chemicals coat the fibre
• Soak for extended periods: colours may bleed and the fibre weakens
• Mix coloured and white silks in the same wash

Proper drying is critical for maintaining silk's lustre and shape.

• Air dry only: never tumble dry. The heat and mechanical action will shrink and damage the fibre.
• Lay the garment flat on a clean, dry towel away from direct sunlight. Silk fades and weakens under continuous UV exposure.
• For dresses and longer garments, you may hang on a padded hanger in a well-ventilated area, away from direct light and heat sources.
• Never hang silk garments in direct sunlight or near radiators.
• Avoid using clothespins directly on the fabric: they can leave permanent marks on wet silk.
• Allow the garment to dry completely before storing. Residual moisture can cause mildew on protein fibres.

Silk is naturally wrinkle resistant thanks to its elastic protein structure, but when pressing is needed:

• Iron on the reverse side while the garment is still slightly damp. This prevents watermarks and shine.
• Set iron to the lowest temperature (max 110°C with silk/low setting). Silk remains unaffected up to 140°C but begins to decompose at 175°C.
• Always use a pressing cloth (a clean cotton cloth) between the iron and the silk to prevent direct contact.
• Never use steam directly on silk. Water droplets cause permanent spots on the fabric.
• Iron in smooth, continuous strokes. Never leave the iron stationary on silk.

Act quickly: fresh stains are far easier to treat than set ones.

• Blot immediately: Never rub. Rubbing silk causes abrasion and can break the fine filaments. Silk's abrasion resistance is moderate; friction is one of its main vulnerabilities.
• Use cool water and a small amount of mild soap to gently dab the stain from the outside inward.
• For oil-based stains: lightly dust with talcum powder or cornstarch, let it absorb for 30 minutes, then gently brush off before washing.
• For wine or food: blot with cool water immediately, then soak in a mild detergent solution.
• Never use hot water on stains: Heat sets protein-based and tannin stains permanently.
• For persistent stains, take the garment to a professional cleaner. Specify the stain type and that the fabric is silk.

Proper storage protects silk from its main enemies: light, moisture, insects, and abrasion.

• Clean before storing. Residual body oils, perfume, and perspiration can yellow and weaken silk over time. Sweat in particular is damaging to the fibre.
• Store in a cool, dry, dark location. Silk's protein structure degrades with prolonged light exposure.
• Use padded or velvet-covered hangers for dresses and tops to maintain shape without stress on seams.
• For long-term storage, place in a breathable garment bag (cotton or muslin, plastic not recommended). Silk needs air circulation to prevent moisture buildup.
• Add natural moth deterrents such as cedar blocks or lavender sachets. Silk, being a protein fibre, is attractive to moths.
• Avoid folding silk for extended periods: fold lines can become permanent. If folding is necessary, use acid-free tissue paper between folds.
• Keep silk away from rough fabrics (denim, Velcro) that can snag the smooth filaments.

A few habits will keep your silk garments looking pristine:

• Apply perfume and cosmetics before dressing: Alcohol in perfume and chemicals in deodorant can stain and weaken silk fibres. Let products dry fully before putting on your garment.
• Be mindful of jewellery: Rings, bracelets and rough edges can snag silk's smooth surface. Silk is prone to snagging due to its delicate filament structure.
• Rotate your garments: Give silk pieces a day of rest between wears to allow the fibres to recover their natural elasticity.
• Avoid prolonged sun exposure: while wearing silk outdoors. UV light degrades the protein structure and fades colour permanently.
• Beware of static: Silk easily gathers static electricity. A light mist of water or a natural anti-static spray can help in dry conditions.
• Silk is self-cleaning to a degree: it naturally sheds dust and dirt. Not every wear requires a wash. Simply air your garment after wearing.